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Weartested: Levi’s ’15 Fall/Winter Skateboarding Collection
自我们上次发布关于Levi’s Skateboarding系列大概也有2个月了,必须要说的是,在过去的一年中Levi’s为滑板圈做了很多不容忽视的事情。他们过去的营销主要针对做一些有影响力的小型纪录片,在国际层面上去呈现滑板在发展中国家的情况,像印度还有玻利维亚新板场的建立。但是在过去的这一年中,他们把发展的圈子转移到了美国,尤其是加州的西奥克兰还有南达科他州的派恩里奇。奥克兰本身就是一个政治和社会动荡出名的城市(过去Oscar Grant枪杀事件),帮派暴力,高犯罪率还有谋杀率。美术老师Keith Williams就要亲自为青少年们提供一个“避风港”,来消去他们对一些消极东西的关注,反而是在西奥克兰一个废旧的DIY skatepark里去培养他们的创造力。离奥克兰仅十五分钟车程,总部在旧金山的Levi’s召集了这个社区的力量重新整修了西奥克兰的Defremery Skatepark,还邀请了Marius Syvanen, Al Partanen 还有Pat Moran去和孩子们一起滑板。在这样一个活动已经很好地开展的同时,Levi’s在南达科他州的派恩里奇再一次用它的社区影响力为青少年们建造了一个滑板场。这里的印第安人青少年们都住在派恩里奇保留地,并面临着很多像自杀,绝望还有药物滥用这样的艰难问题。但是Levi’s联手Stronghold Society的建立者Walt Pourier,在曼德森附近的社区为派恩里奇的孩子们建造了另一个滑板场,让他们把滑板作为一项活动,从而引导他们走向积极。毫无疑问,这两部关于发展青年社区的纪录片看似已经偏离了滑板牛仔裤,但是Levi’s已经找到了正确方法,用Strong Made Stronger的口号去把他们的产品和市场紧密地联系起来。一起来看最新的2015秋季系列背后的故事以及它是否真的已经很好地能去适应滑板了。
It has been about 1 year since our last post about Levi’s Skateboarding collection, and we must say, this past year Levi’s has done a lot for the skateboarding community that shouldn’t go unnoticed. Their past marketing has been targeted on making effective mini documentaries that showcase skateboarding in developing communities on an international level, with new skateparks built in India and Bolivia. But in this past year, they have focused on the developing communities within America, more notably, West Oakland, California and Pine Ridge, South Dakota. Oakland itself is a city known for it’s political and social unrest (with the past Oscar Grant shootings), gang violence, and high crime and murder rate. Art teacher Keith Williams has taken it upon himself to provide a haven for the youth to remove their focus away from the negativity, and instead foster their creative energy in a run-down DIY skatepark located in West Oakland. Only fifteen minutes away from Oakland, San Francisco based Levi’s directed it’s community efforts in renovating the West Oakland Defremery Skatepark, and inviting Marius Syvanen, Al Partanen and Pat Moran to shred with the kids. A similar campaign was currently launched as well, where Levi’s once again put their community efforts into building a skatepark for the youth in Pine Ridge, South Dakota. The Native American youth here all live on the Pine Ridge reservation and face a lot of hardships dealing with suicide, hopelessness and drug abuse. However, Levi’s teamed up with the Walt Pourier, founder of the Stronghold Society, and built another skatepark in the neighboring community of Manderson for the youth of Pine Ridge to find skateboarding as an activity that drives focus towards positivity. It’s no question that these two documentaries on developing youth communities seem to stray away from skateboarding jeans, but Levi’s has find the right way to tie their product in with their marketing with their Strong Made Stronger slogan. Let’s check out the story behind the new Fall 2015 collection and if it’s well-adapted for skateboarding.
鞋和硬件对于滑板来说可能是最重要的装备了,但牛仔裤和斜纹布裤对滑板也是有很大的影响,而这一点常常被忽视。有些滑手更喜欢紧身的牛仔裤,这样他们就能更清楚的看到脚下的板面,而另外一些滑手更喜欢宽松一些的裤子从而让他们的灵活性最大化。每个人都有自己的偏好,但是耐穿的牛仔裤和舒适的斜纹布裤在过去的20年中已经成了滑板时尚里最主要的部分了。因此,在有滑板服饰品牌之前,Levi’s牛仔裤可以说是滑手们的不二之选。他们的风格和滑板文化也有所相关,而牛仔裤也被证实非常耐穿,并且不论滑板时的穿着或是撕扯都会保留得很完整。
Shoes and hardware are the most important pieces of equipment for skateboarding. However, the importance of jeans and chino pants are often forgotten for they attribute a huge influence to skateboarding as well. Some skaters prefer tighter jeans to have a full visible field of the deck, while others prefer pants that are wider for maximum flexibility. Everyone has personal preferences but durable jeans and comfortable chino pants have been the staples of skateboarding fashion for over two decades. Thus, before there were skateboarding clothing brands, Levis jeans were the undeniable choice for skaters. Their styles were relevant to skateboarding culture and the jeans proved to be extremely durable and would remain intact despite the wear and tear from skating.
在认识到这一点后,对Levi’s来说根本不需要考虑去把品牌引入滑板领域,并去打造一条尤其适合滑板的牛仔裤。因此,他们采用了像513或是511这样经典的风格,并重新设计他们,更加注重了耐磨性和舒适性,使之更适合滑板。Levi’s深度地把两种面料融入到他们的滑板系列中去,第一种叫做Cordura,它能很成功地模仿经典牛仔面料的感觉,但具有更好的耐磨特性。第二种叫做Lycra,这种面料提供了更多的灵活性,同时保持了其强度,还具有更好的透气性。
Realizing this, it was a no-brainer for Levi’s to branch into the skateboarding scene and build a line of jeans specifically adapted for skateboarding. Thus, they took classical styles like the 513 or 511 and reinforced/redesigned them for skateboarding with a special focus on durability and comfort. Levis heavily incorporated two fabrics into their skateboarding collection. The first one of which is called Cordura, which successfully mimics the feeling of a classic jean fabric but has better abrasion resistance characteristics. The second one is called Lycra. This fabric offers more flexibility while retaining its strength and also has better breathability.
和普通的Levi’s裤子相比,滑板系列的牛仔裤会有额外的缝线去加固最受力的区域,通常会是在大腿之间。为了让裤子更加耐穿,他们把后面的口袋设计为两层,因此在裤子里面就看不到后袋。这个特点增加了裤子的耐磨性,一旦后袋的第一层磨破洞了,就会有另外一层来维持穿着和“撕扯”。作为一个小小的隐藏亮点就是Levi’s的每条裤子都会有一个暗袋。
Compared to regular Levis pants, the skateboard collection jeans have extra stitches to reinforce the most stressed area, which is usually between the legs. To make the jeans even more durable, they double layered the back pockets and as a result, there is no back pocket inside. This feature increases the durability because as soon as one layer of the back pocket has a hole, there is another layer that can sustain additional wear and tear. As a little hidden gem, Levis also included a stash pocket in every pair of pants.
我选择了一条Levis 511比较瘦身紧一点的款式,在穿着一个月在滑板时完全没有影响我的动作,面料有良好的拉伸回弹力!动作失败摔倒时牛仔裤经常和水泥地接触摩擦,这确证实了Cordura出色的耐磨性,除了有一些摩擦时留下的印记,面料完全没事!
唯一觉得一些不足的是感觉面料不是太柔软偏粗一些,稍稍影响了穿着的舒适度,滑板大量流汗后也没有发现任何退色在皮肤上的问题。总之现在我大部分的时间无论是工作或是滑板我都愿意穿着它..
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Tested and Reviewed By: Edan Q.
Photos by: Yvonne
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