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Individuals:Allan Marshall
这期的Individuals我们与Mishka 中国区设计总监Allan Marshall展开了一段对话,来了解下这位DJ/设计师/涂鸦人的生活经历,同时也了解下Mishka及2015 Streetwear行业趋势
1.首先给大家介绍下你自己吧
我是一个30岁的澳洲“老头”,我现在呢在做Mishka的设计总监,同时也是插图画家和设计师。我一直在Mishka工作,之前还曾经在Missy Skin上过班。同时我也是大型派对团体Yeti In The Bassment的一员。周末的时候你经常可以在夜店里面看到我们在做各种活动
2.那你在中国呆了多久了?感觉这里如何?
我差不多在上海呆了一年多了,我很喜欢上海的这种文化氛围,有一种感觉就是所有的文化都在这里慢慢的发展和崛起。而且这里的滑板、艺术、音乐环境也在不断的向好的方向改善,而且各个圈子之间也是相互了解相互重叠,共同进步,这是我所居住的城市中很难看到的一点。
当然上海开车的人和出租车司机的那种傲慢劲儿也是涨了我的见识。所有人都在抢出租,而且出租司机也会很挑客人,作为一个大胡子老外,真的很难打到车。还有就是这里的空气污染也是蛮烦的一点。
3.对于很多中国的朋友而言,Mishka还是一个比较新的名字,能给大家简单的介绍下Mishka吗?
Mishka是一个在2003年成立于纽约布鲁克林的街头服装品牌,品牌的根本是嘻哈和朋克文化,但随着品牌的发展,Mishka也玩出了自己的风格。我们有一个说法就是“任何一个不同寻常,奇怪和脱离现实的人都可以和Mishka相联系上。作为品牌,Mishka其实更多的是在做一种艺术文化。将艺术图案和艺术态度在服饰上加以表现。我们也和很多设计师共同合作推出系列产品。我们也在不断的扩张产品线和风格,让更多的人喜欢上Mishka。
4.Mishka这回也是正式进入了中国,为什么现在进来?
其实The Source从07年就开始做Mishka的分销商了,从The Source的第一个店铺开业的时候就卖Mishka的东西了,Mishka在The Source卖的一直不错,而且一直也是我们非常好的合作伙伴。2014年开始Mishka决定批准The Source开始Mishka中国的产品线,我和Mishka的其他设计师针对亚洲市场也推出了更为贴合的一系列产品,同时也借用纽约系列产品的元素将Mishka的DNA传递到中国产品线上。我们也希望可以将Mishka和我们的品牌文化通过这样的方式让更多中国朋友知道。
5.2015年Mishka有什么计划?之前小道消息说Mishka会开旗舰店是真的么?
我们还是会不断在产品和品牌宣传上做文章,同时也会在中国市场做更多活动并给与更多支持。我们更注重质量而不是数量,现在我们的重心更倾向于零售。我们的旗舰店会在2月中在上海龙之梦购物中心开启。这是我们第一个正式的中国零售店,至于在2015,我们会在上海来福士,北京,成都,长沙和武汉逐渐开启零售店铺。
6.除了作为Mishka的设计主脑外,你还是位有名DJ,你经常会放什么类型的音乐?
我喜欢非常多不同类型的音乐,但我经常放的是Disco和House音乐,当然也有点庞克影响。
7.你认为音乐给你的设计带来了怎样的影响?
音乐对于我的设计有很深厚的影响力,其实我最早的一份有薪水的工作就是给我家乡的一些乐队和活动做宣传单设计,而且我一直受到唱片封面艺术的影响,从很早的时候我爸爸就一直在收集唱片,比如像Deep Purple ,Pink Floyd还有一些70年代的迷幻乐队都对我有很深刻的影响。我同时也对亚文化艺术非常感兴趣,比如很多的宣传单的设计呀,还有像Suicidal Tendencies,都不断影响着我的设计和生活。
8.最近有什么好活动可以给我们推荐的吗?
最近我们有两个大活动,Venus X在Arkham的活动以及我在Lola Bar办的一个影片放映式。影片放映的是一个关于纽约夜店Paradise Garage的传奇故事,片名叫Maestro。讲的是很经典的Garage音乐年代。在3月我们还会请来Taylor McFerrin和Tornado Wallace来做活动。
9.话说你的这个胡子留了多久了?有没有什么故事给大家讲讲。
其实我从去年7月就开始留胡子了,有一阵子胡子太长,感觉自己像个农村人一样。后来我就开始认真的修剪了,现在好多了。
10.你感觉整个街头服饰行业在2015会是什么样的趋势,哪些品牌我们需要留意?
当然要留意Mishka了,当然还有这个叫Missy Skin的牌子,我一直在帮他们做一些设计,两个品牌在2015年都会有很明显的变化。其他的话可以留意下澳洲的Grand Scheme和新西兰的ILOVEUGLY,瑞典品牌OUR LEGACY和日本的Neighbourhood都不错。
1.Tell us a little about yourself
Allan:Im 30 years old and from Australia, I am a Creative Director, illustrator and Designer, Working with brands including Mishka and Missy Skins.I am also a member of the Yeti in the Basement party crew you can catch us running events or playing music at a club near you most weekends.
2.How long have you been in China?and how do you like it so far?
Allan:I have been in Shanghai for a little over a year. I really like the buzz that this City has. It has a feeling of being an emerging creative hub. I also like that there are great local scenes here of many cultures including skate, art and music but everyone knows each other and is happy to work with each other. This makes it very inclusive a rare experience to other cities I have been in.
As for Hates, my peeves with the city are insane drivers on the road and the arrogance of Taxi’s. The way people seem to constantly try and huck up phlem from a place in their bodies way beneath their toes and of course we all hate the pollution.
3.To a lot of people in china, Mishka is still new,can you give us some insights of what is Mishka?
Mishka in a Brooklyn NYC street wear Label that started in 2003, it has its roots in Hip Hop and Punk DIY culture but has grown to have an image all of its own. We have a tag line “Anybody who has a passion for the unusual, divergent and strange can find a connection to МИШКА and its culture” . and I think this sums the brands ethos up nicely. It has it’s beginning as an Art brand, utilising the graphic images of resident artist L’amour Supreme and collaborating with other artists. The brand has grown to have a wide variety of pieces and styles in the range that reflect it wide fan base.
4.So Mishka China is just starting up,why China and why now?
As a company The source was Mishka’s distributor in China from 2007, we have carried the label since the first Source store was opened. Mishka has always had a good response in our stores and we have carried the brand ever since. In 2014 we began to be the Licence Holders for Mishka China with the aim of increasing the brands appeal to the local China Market. We have been working hard on developing a special range for the Asia Market and culture, mixing more suited fit sizes and original designs together with the NY range, while still following Mishka’s original DNA. This formula has proven successful throughout 2014 and we look forward to making Mishka and its Culture a more well known brand throughout China.
5.what Mishka will do in 2015 in China?There has been rumored a flagship store is opening up,really?
We will continue to improve the product offering and Branding for the local Market as well as running event and supporting local artists in China, which is in keeping with Mishka’s ideologies. We are focusing on quality not quantity. So yes, our main focus at the moment it our new Flag Ship store that is opening in Shanghai Longemont shopping mall this week. It is the first shop to be rolled out with our new Mishka retail fit out for China. The rest of 2015 will see the concept rolled out into stores in Shanghai Raffles City, Beijing, Chengdu, Changsha and Wuhan.
6.besides being a creative heads behind Mishka,you are also a wellknown DJ,what kind of music do you play/like?
I like a huge variety of music, kinda hard to define. But I play Disco and house, often with a post punk influence.
7.any upcoming gigs we might wanna look out for?
The two main upcoming shows that yeti in the basement are presenting are Venus X on Friday the 6th of Feb at Arkham, and my new party at Lola on thursdays called House of Disco, we have a special Paradise Garage NY tribute night on the 12th of Feb and will be screening a documentary early in the night on it’s beginnings in 1977 and the decade that it ran for. It is credited as having being the start of the modern Disco and House Dj culture that we see today. We will then be playing Disco, NY Garage and house songs from the period throughout the rest of the night.
We also have a some great shows coming up in March including Taylor McFerrin and Tornado Wallace.
8.how do you think music has influnced your designing?what kind music do you prefer listening to when you are designing stuff.
Music has influenced my designing immensely, some of my first paid artwork was designing Flyers for local bands and raves back in Australia. and I have always been inspired by record sleeve artwork, even from an early age going through my dads record collections looking at gatefold record covers by bands like deep purple or pink floyd or some of the more obscure psychedelic bands of the 70′s. I am also influenced by the art that is attached to the sub cultures the I have been into. for example I really like the hand Illustrated flyers and merch for early Suicidal Tendencies. or more recently Andrew Weatherall’s hand carved and printed Linocut flyers for his “A Love from out of space” party series in London.
When I am designing it really depends on the mood I am in, I listen to a lot of Electronic sets day to day. however Iggy and the Stooges, Fugazi, and early Chilli peppers get a play usually towards the end of the day or when a deadline is getting closer. I had an bit of a habit of listening to old Thrash Metal for a while there as well.
9.How long have you grown that beard?and is there a story behind it or jst a rush of mind and it stuck?
Haha, Well I’ve been growing it since last July. It’s gone through a couple of variants it was a fair bit longer at one stage but I was starting to look a little like a hill billy. There isn’t really a story behind it, I just started growing it one day and thought id commit to see how long I could grow it. I guess its kinda stuck now though for a while.
10. What do you see the whole streetwear industry in 2015?any brands we should look out for?
Of course keep and eye on Mishka, and Missy Skins locally in China who I have been working with on their latest range Electric, both brands will be doing some exciting things in 2015. Other than that Internationally I am really liking Grand scheme from Australia, I love ugly from New Zealand, Our Legacy from Swedan and Neighbourhood from Japan all have great ranges coming out across a range of price points.
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Individuals:Allan Marshall
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